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Tree removal in Cheddar and Somerset

Felling where there's room. Sectional dismantling where there isn't. Either way, it comes down under control.

Arborist roped into the top of a birch, taking it down in sections above a garden with a shed, greenhouse and vegetable beds below.

What it is

Taking a tree down completely. If there's space, that means felling it in one. In most gardens there isn't, so the tree comes down in sections from the top, a piece at a time.

When you need it

A tree that's dead, dying or dangerous. One that's too close to the house and can't be reduced enough to fix the problem. Ash with dieback that's past saving. If a tree can be kept with pruning or a reduction instead, I'll tell you, because that's usually cheaper and better for the garden.

Sectional dismantling

I climb the tree and cut it down in pieces, starting with the outer branches and working back to the trunk. Each piece is small enough to be controlled. This is how nearly every back-garden tree in Somerset comes down.

Rigging over sheds, greenhouses and fences

Where a piece can't just be dropped, it gets rigged. A rope runs from the section through a pulley higher in the tree and down to a friction device at the base. When I make the cut, the piece swings, hangs, and is lowered gently to the ground wherever we want it, rather than falling on whatever's underneath. It's slower than dropping, and it's the reason nothing gets broken.

How a branch is rigged down over a shedA rope runs from the cut section, up through a pulley fixed higher in the trunk, then down to a friction device at the base of the tree. The groundsman controls the rope so the section swings clear of the shed and is lowered gently to a marked landing zone, instead of dropping.landing zoneshedpulleyrope under loadsectionswings clearfrictiondevice
The section is lowered on the rope rather than dropped. Slower, and the reason nothing underneath gets broken.

Pollarding

Where a tree should stay but be kept small, pollarding cuts it back to the same points on a regular cycle. Common on willows and limes. It's a commitment: once started, it needs repeating every few years.

What happens on the day

I arrive with the kit, walk the garden with you, and agree where everything's going to land. Access is protected, the tree comes down, and the site is cleared and swept before I leave.

What affects the cost

Size of the tree, how close it is to buildings, how much has to be rigged rather than dropped, and how easy the access is. I quote after a site visit, and the quote is free.What affects the cost of tree work →

Common questions

Do I need permission to remove my tree?

You do if it has a Tree Preservation Order on it or stands in a conservation area. I check both as part of quoting. There is more detail in my guide to whether you need permission to cut down a tree.

Can you remove the stump as well?

Yes. Stump grinding takes it out below ground level, and full removal digs the stump and main roots out where you are replanting or building. It is quoted alongside the removal.

Could the tree be reduced instead?

Often, yes. If a reduction or some pruning would solve the problem, I will tell you, because it is usually cheaper and better for the garden than taking the tree out.

How long does it take?

Most single garden trees are a day or less. A large tree in a tight space where everything has to be rigged can run to two. I will tell you which at the quote.

Free quote

A site visit is always needed. Photos give a ballpark, not a price.

07944 004893
  • I couldn't be happier with the work Mac from Mendip Tree Care carried out. Communication was excellent, he arrived on time, worked efficiently and completed the job to a really high standard. All the branches and waste were removed, leaving the garden spotless. It's hard to find reliable tradespeople these days, but Mac was fantastic. I'd happily recommend Mendip Tree Care to anyone looking for tree surgery, tree removal or hedge cutting, and I'll definitely be using him again in the future.

    Ben R

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